Nia Lloyd Knott spent two summers walking, swimming and exploring the hidden corners of West Wales to track down the region’s best secret beaches, river pools and waterfalls. She has now included these in her new book, Wild Swimming Walks West Wales. Here are five of her favourite spots for wild swimming, and the best foot trails along which to approach them (more details of which are included in the book).
ABERYSTWYTH TO BORTH TRAIN WALK
Starting and ending in Aberystwyth (though it’s also possible to do the walk in the other direction, from Borth) this coastal walk uncovers tales of a lost land, and a 5,000 year-old submerged forest, brings Wales’ first university town to life and offers the opportunity to swim in the soothing waters of Cardigan Bay with no less than three lifeguarded beaches to choose from, plus two wilder swims. A short hop on the train completes the loop of this superlative wild swimming walk.
CARN LLIDI AND ST DAVIDS HEAD
Soak up the laidback surf vibes at Porth Mawr (Whitesands), one of Pembrokeshire’s most-loved sandy beaches, then head off on the coast path to luxuriate in the elysian waters at two quieter sandy coves. Venture onto the rugged headland and climb to the peak of Carn Llidi for edge-of-the-world vistas and fascinating history before looping back to complete this four and a half-mile walk.
LLANGRANNOG AND PENBRYN
A five-mile circular meander packed with history and legend, this route traces a coastline of breathtaking beauty, starting and ending at Penbryn. The wide sandy beach here is a lovely spot for a dip and there’s a second chance for a swim at a secret sheltered cove further along the coast as well as at Llangrannog. Taking in the sights at this characterful seaside village, the route then returns through gloriously tranquil countryside.
ST NON’S AND ST DAVIDS
St Davids is a city of religious and natural reverence, where people are drawn either to pray, or to play in the wild blue waters that lap the peninsula. Starting and ending by the city’s cathedral this five and a half-mile walk offers some adventurous swims and explorations of rocky coves in the birthplace of coasteering as it leads west along the shore. Heading inland back to St David’s past the pool at Treginnis Uchaf it also offers an insight into the fascinating spiritual history of this ancient pilgrimage centre.
PONTARFYNACH
A quiet, five-mile walk along the banks of the upper Mynach river, this route starts and ends at the Hafod Hotel, Devil’s Bridge, leading into deep countryside along the way. There’s the chance to swim in an enchanting section of gorge beside a forgotten mill, and to enjoy lazy, laidback river dips surrounded by moorland, forest and hills before returning to the village to learn more about the legend of the Devil’s Bridge.
Taken from Wild Swimming Walks West Wales: 28 coast, river & waterfall days out by Nia Lloyd Knott
